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Journey to Basque Country: Where Sheep Rule

July 12, 2024
Laurent Mons
Journey to Basque Country: Where Sheep Rule

The Shepherd's Life

The Basque Country's relationship with sheep spans millennia. Here, in valleys between France and Spain, shepherds still follow seasonal rhythms their ancestors knew.

Transhumance

Each June, the Etcheverry family moves their flock of 400 Manech sheep to high mountain pastures. This annual migration — "transhumance" — follows ancient paths through the Pyrenees.

"The summer grazing is everything," explains Pierre Etcheverry. "The altitude, the wild herbs, the clean air — it all becomes part of the cheese."

Ossau-Iraty AOP

The cheese they make — Ossau-Iraty — is protected by strict rules: raw milk from local breeds, traditional methods only, aging minimum 90 days in mountain caves.

The result is remarkable. Firm but supple texture, nutty and slightly sweet with herbaceous notes. Each wheel represents a specific moment — particular weather, specific pastures, the season's unique conditions.

A Dying Art?

The shepherd's life is hard. Long hours, isolation, economic uncertainty. Young people increasingly choose other paths. The Etcheverrys worry about the future.

"If shepherds disappear, so does this cheese," Pierre says. "You can't make authentic Ossau-Iraty in a factory. This requires living with the animals, knowing the land."

Supporting producers like the Etcheverrys isn't just about buying cheese — it's about preserving culture, landscape, and irreplaceable knowledge.